Four Scores: 4corners Offers Vietnamese at Houhai

Most folks agree that the lakesides of Houhai and Qianhai, blighted by tacky bars and tourist tat, are a scandalous misuse of prime real estate. But a wind of change is blowing across the waters. 4corners, the first solo project from Vietnamese-Canadian chef Jun Trinh, formerly of Luga’s Pho Pho and now a TV personality, has taken over what used to be the Orange Tree. According to Trinh, the concept is “food, drinks, art and people.” A bar, spot-lit stage, regular live gigs and smattering of cultural events takes care of the other stuff – we’re here for the food.

A hot-and-sour fish head soup (RMB 45) was awesomely flavor-packed, zippy with lime leaves, pineapple and chilli. Trinh’s take on hongshao rou (RMB 88), with the additions of fish sauce, coconut flesh and caramelized shallots, was a gut-bustingly rich main, best eaten sparingly over rice. Of the more tapas-oriented dishes, we sampled a plate of fried strips of fish in a Southeast Asian-style sweet and sour sauce (RMB 45), and some wonderful Vietnamese rolls (RMB 50) filled with toasted rice, ultra-fine pork skin and leafy herbs. On weekends, a brunch menu features Canadian-style breakfasts and Asian options like pho, plus a range of classic “morning-after” cocktails.

For now, 4corners feels more like a bar than a restaurant, making it better suited to tapas-style dining with friends rather than an intimate soiree. But with great outdoor seating options, the space should really shine this summer.

Standout dishes: Hot and sour fish head soup, Vietnamese rolls

Also try: Va Va Voom, Susu

4corners 四角餐厅 Daily 11am-midnight. 27 Dashibei Hutong (near west end of Yandai Xiejie), Xicheng District (6401 7797) 西城区大石碑胡同27号（烟袋斜街西口附近)

Photos: Judy Zhou