Napa: Bringing Californian Sophistication to the Shunyi Food Scene

The opening of Napa at their new location in Shunyi caused quite a buzz on social media. Their previous incarnation, just south of Chaoyang Park, was particularly popular with the international community, and the arrival of their fresh take on Californian cuisine promises to pep up the suburb’s often underwhelming dining scene.

The new restaurant is spacious and airy, with a high ceiling and a glass front. It seats 95 inside and there will be another 40 places outside over the summer. The contemporary vibe is enhanced by a hip indie playlist. Those familiar with the old Napa might also be surprised by the menu though. Owner Andrew Hsu and chef Colin Smith have shifted from affordable casual dining to a more formal, high-end experience.

We sampled the Caesar salad (RMB 78), composed of crisp romaine hearts, garlic mantou croutons, and an eyelid-batting sharpness of lemon zest cutting through. With anchovies, grana padano, and a hint of pepper heat, it’s satisfyingly complex for such a light dish.

A forthcoming addition to the menu is the lobster roll; Boston lobster lightly tossed in aioli on freshly baked brioche. The butter in the brioche worked well, but its sweetness threatened to overwhelm for the delicate flavor of the meat.

The sambuca mussels and clams (RMB 138) were gloriously fragrant, with fennel the keynote in the broth, and woodfired garlic bread for dipping. Alternatively, the Mapo Burrata Pizza (RMB 128) is an intriguing marriage between Eastern and Western cuisines, with the tofu replaced by creamy burrata cheese.

The highlight though was the Australian wagyu steak (RMB 238). The beef is cooked sous vide before chargrilling, rendering it so tender that you can cut it with a butter knife. It’s sublime on its own, but dipping in a tart-sweet yakiniku sauce brought out the underlying charcoal flavors. The “Slice of Ice” salad – cold iceberg lettuce cradling a poached egg and yakiniku-ranch dressing – tended to overpower it, however.

On tap, there’s draft beer from Jing-A and Boxing Cat, as well as wine and cocktails, and a plan to expand the menu over the coming weeks, adding bar snacks, brunch, and afternoon tea. Ingredients are locally sourced wherever possible, a point that backs Napa’s serious take on food, and one that impacts its prices accordingly. Nonetheless, it makes for a more than welcome change from the uninspiring chain restaurants which otherwise predominate in Shunyi.

Napa (Shunyi)
150 meters north of Tian Bei Lu and Yu Feng Lu Intersection in Shunyi, Shunyi District (186 1115 1686)
顺义区天北路和裕丰路口向北走150米路东边

Photos courtesy of Napa