2010 Jun 01 Keep a Grand Distance: Grand Steam Opens on Financial Street
What’s grand about Grand Steam is not immediately apparent. Certainly it’s not the portions; our single scallop (RMB 12) could hardly be found under all the drooping vermicelli. Then again, something so defiantly chewy is probably best kept hidden. Perhaps “grand” refers to the Cantonese-style restaurant’s aspirations – high-quality, natural ingredients, steamed with low sodium and low oil. So comes the grandest discovery of all: the shortfall between expectation and execution.
We had high hopes for the spareribs in greengage sauce (RMB 38), which could have been an intriguing take on preserved plums. Instead, the sweet-salty sauce overwhelmed the taro while barely making an impression on the ribs – all the better for appreciating their pudgy yet tough texture. The thick chunks of fat in the char siu buns (RMB 16 for three) would choke anyone seeking a healthful meal. And even though beef tripe steamed with ginger and peppers (RMB 18) was a welcome reminder that there are other flavors in the world besides fat and salt, too bad there were only six nicely spiced slivers.
Eggplant in vinegar and oil (RMB 22) finally lived up to the healthful steamed gimmick, but we could have made this simple dish ourselves. Still, this restaurant may be just what the dieting beauties of Financial Street need: stylish all-white surroundings in which to be seen nibbling next-to-nothings. If so, then this scion of the South Beauty empire delivers – but people seeking real flavors should keep a grand distance.
Standout dishes: Beef tripe with ginger and peppers, eggplant in vinegar and oil
Also try: Madame Zhu’s Kitchen, Trainspotting
Grand Steam 蒸
Daily 10am-10pm. Shop F2H, 9-3 Jinshu Jie, Jincheng Fang, Financial Street, Xicheng District (6629 0692)
西城区金城坊金树街9-3号F2H铺
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