Dazhalan: Creative Culture in the Heart of Old Beijing

From their previous residential importance, Dazhalan (known in the local Beijing dialect as Dashilar) and its hutongs have transformed into a hub of tourism and everything creative-and-art-related. We stake out some of the best things to see, do, eat, and drink in the area, and help you plan a tentative day trip.

Our journey starts just off the main road, Meishi Jie, at Yangmeizhu Xiejie. Coming up to this road from Tian’anmen Square, it might seem like the entire area is a consumerist tourist haven, but this street really is much calmer, and shops here are more interesting, allowing for an insight into Beijing’s creative community.

DESIGN SHOPS

For starters, check out Book Design Shop, at the beginning of the street, your one-stop shop for all design-related books, magazines, and zines. Opened a year ago around Beijing Design Week, this store offers an expansive collection of international and local goods. Whether you’re looking for something specific (contact them ahead if you are), or just want to see what the Beijing design community is writing, the store has a collection of interesting locally produced materials.
Heading further west you’ll pass the Suzuki Kitchen Shop selling interesting house wares and decorations. This store is the perfect place to pick up a unique gift for someone with great taste and a designer home, or fill up that blank space in your house with something a bit different.

LIGHT BITES
Nestled in the courtyard next to the shop you’ll find Suzuki Kitchen, a great place to grab some lunch. Dishes here are well-known throughout the city for their homey ingredients and authentic Japanese flavors, and although there are several other branches around Gulou and Beixinqiao, this one is our favorite.

If you’ve strolled up an appetite but prefer salads and sandwiches over Japanese-style curry and hot pot, fear not, there’s plenty of coffee-drinking and rooftop-lounging to be done around this part of town, and none of it goes without a beverage in hand.

SIPPING COFFEE

On the same street, we checked out Soloist Coffee Co., a pleasant spot with a glorious rooftop serving up a range of appropriately nerdy single origin coffees and cold brews. This caffeine palace clearly has its act together, and the tables on the roof allow you to people-watch over the eclectic crowds that call Dazhalan home.

A bit further down, Ubi Gallery sells innovative and original pieces of jewelry and ceramics from top-class contemporary international artists. The space has a constant flow of different artists and pieces for those with a keen eye. At the end of this road, we turned left, left again, and then right, onto Tieshu Xiejie, where Spoonful of Sugar attracts a hip crowd with their salads, sandwiches, and cakes, all sourced from local ingredients. 

With creative names, and equally as delicious ingredients, like The Art of Conversation (mushroom, spinach, Gruyere cheese and pesto), The Theory of Everything (eggplant, grilled peppers, spinach, and pesto), and The Hutong Waltz (pulled pork, apple coleslaw, and pickles) you can’t go wrong with any of the sandwiches (RMB 38-48). Plates are on the smaller side, so if you’re with a few people and hungry, go ahead and order a few dishes to share. If you’ve already had lunch, the cakes are a great option to replenish your energy.

OLD BEIJING

Alternatively, also between these two hutongs, you’ll find Baozi Restaurant, sporting a green sign. Their eggplant baozi are well-known in the local community, and as with most baozi places, if you don’t get there early there may not be any left. Baozi here are halal, and there are many options if you want to have a cheap lunch instead.

Diagonally opposite Spoonful of Sugar there is a nameless souvenir and bookstore, worth a visit for its collection of Chinese books and genuinely old things (think posters, interesting military truck and car manuals, Mao-era propaganda items, old calendars, unused old notebooks, textbooks, and other stationary from way back when) and makes for a great browse. If you speak Chinese and are interested in history, you’ll be able to spend most of the day in here, providing you aren’t allergic to, or afraid of, a little bit of dust. There are also some of the usual “I visited Beijing” souvenirs, making it a great stop if you are passing through Dazhalan with friends or family.

Special thanks to Céline Lamée of Lava Beijing for sharing her insight into Dazhalan.

DIRECTORY
Book Design Shop
Tue-Sun 11am-8pm. 23 Yangmeizhu Xiejie, Xicheng District (8319 7844)
西城区杨梅竹斜街23号

Suzuki Kitchen
Wed-Mon 11.30am-3pm, 5.30-9.30pm. 10-14 Yangmeizhu Xiejie, Xicheng District (6313 5409)
西城区杨梅竹斜街10-14号

Suzuki Kitchen Shop
Daily 11.30am-7.30pm. 16 Yangmeizhu Xiejie, Xicheng District (6313 5409)
西城区杨梅竹斜街16号

Soloist Coffee Co.
Daily 10.30am-10pm. 39 Yangmeizhu Xiejie, Xicheng District (5711 1717)
西城区杨梅竹斜街39号

Ubi Gallery
Tue-Sun 11am-10pm (summer), Tue-Sun 11am-6pm (winter). 62 Yangmeizhu Xiejie, Xicheng District (6301 2382) 
西城区杨梅竹斜街62号

Spoonful of Sugar
Daily 10.30am-10pm. 59 Tieshu Xiejie, Xicheng District (6308 3971)
西城区铁树斜街59号

Baozi Restaurant
Available according to supply. Crossing between Tongzi Hutong and Yingtao Xiejie (no phone)
童子胡同与樱桃斜街的路口

Souvenir and Bookstore
Daily 11am-7pm. 42 Tieshu Xiejie, Xicheng District (no phone)
西城区铁树斜街42号

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Email: margauxschreurs@truerun.com
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Photos: Margaux Schreurs