2009 Apr 25 Food for Thought: Beijing’s top restaurateurs reveal recipe for success

The financial climate might be about as gloomy as this past Thursday's weather, but that didn’t stop Beijing’s brightest entrepreneurs from braving the rain to take part in a round-table forum with three big-league restaurateurs. Gaby Alves (SALT), Bob Boyce (Blue Frog) and Fred Lin (Bellagio) fielded questions in The Bookworm’s library-like seminar room on the do’s and don’ts of epicurial empire-building, in a presentation organized by the Beijing chapter of the Entrepreneurs' Organization.
Though their cuisines and approaches are poles apart, these three food heroes all started small, and cited hard work, a passion for food and a commitment to quality as fundamental to their growth. With Alameda and now SALT under her belt, Gaby recalled selling home-baked bread from the back of her bicycle in Sao Paulo at aged 19. Fred Lin underlined the three ‘r’s - red tape, regulation, and registration. And in his first restaurant in Shanghai 10 years ago, Bob started out selling “iced tea and soft drinks from jam jars ‘cos we couldn’t find glassware big enough.” Today, the broad-shouldered U.S. native boasts 10 restaurants, over 600 staff, and a chef training manual as stacked as one of his Montana BBQ Burgers.

Afterwards over a glass or two of The Bookworm’s very decent Chilean white, the Beijinger grabbed a few words with Gaby and Bob on a topic much closer to our hearts - Chinese food. “Give me hot pot or some Yunnan,” says Gaby enthusiastically, “or Sichuan food and a crate of beer”. A moment after admitting Maison Boulud a Pekin as her favourite ‘other’ restaurant, Gaby confesses a secret love for jian bing. And she’s not the only one. Bob Boyce declares a penchant for the pancake-like street snack too, as well as his favourite Beijing staple - Xinjiang hand-pulled noodles. Caught up in the spirit of confession, even The Bookworm's Alex Pearson owns up as a guilty post-midnight jian bing binger.
So, it seems this town’s F & B insiders are all hooked on these little parcels of doughy goodness - could Philly Cheesesteaks or Pao de Queijo done jian bing style be around the corner?
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A mianbao taxi from 1997. The driver is happy and there would be a hole in the floor and the rear might open up and lose diners at any moment.The starters
Meat-filled pancakes (roubing 肉饼) from Ping’an Roubing Dian on Ping’an Dajie, just west of Dongsishitiao. These would be served with ma doufu (麻豆腐) and guanchang (灌肠) (potato starch sliced, fried and served with a bowl of smashed garlic in water). Not because I really like guanchang, but just because the characters for the dish are the same as “enema.” Some restaurants translate it into English as “fried enema,” which is surely a unique dish.




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Re: Food for Thought: Beijing’s top restaurateurs reveal ...
Another take on this evening, from Shane Crombie via Beijing Boyce:
http://www.beijingboyce.com/2009/04/29/kitchen-kingpins-three-restaurant...
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