Q&A With Marcel Lesoille, Oyster Ambassador
Hailing from Brittany, France, Marcel Lesoille has made oysters his life’s passion. With over 40 years experience in the food and beverage industry, he acts as a seafood consultant for some of France’s premier restaurants. A five-time world champion of oyster opening, records he has set include opening 28 oysters in one minute while blindfolded. I sat down with him to talk all things oysters during his recent visit to Brasserie FLO.
What changes have you seen in the market for oysters over the year?
Actually the biggest change has been in China, where we have seen a huge evolution in the market for oysters, which is of course why I decided to visit. Earlier this year China took part in the Coupe du Monde des Écaillers (World Cup of Seafood Presentation). However, they were initially disqualified because their technique didn’t correspond to traditional French methods. I decided to take the Chinese aside and work with them to create a seafood platter in the traditional French fashion. After that, one of the Chinese delegates approached me and urged me to come to China to teach people more about oysters.
How can French producers further stimulate the market for oysters in China?
It’s about education. We need to pass on the knowledge we have accumulated around oysters to the Chinese. In China people already have a kind of respect for foreign foods and trends, and this is something we can build on. Oysters are like wine: you have to know how to taste them, how the terroir affects the flavor, and how to preserve that flavor. For example, it’s good for people to try oysters while blindfolded, as it helps them to develop a true sense of the flavors. In France all of this is common knowledge, it’s habit, but in China it’s still a discovery.
Do you think location or atmosphere can affect people’s enjoyment of oysters?
Oysters are actually quite democratic in their own way. You can eat oysters from a beautiful platter in a nice restaurant like Brasserie FLO; in a casual restaurant at the seaside; or straight from a pallet out of the back of a delivery van. I think it’s a type of snobbery to think that you always have to eat oysters in a certain way, or in a certain location. In France, even the poorest families might buy a few oysters to enjoy at Christmas or New Year. It’s a way of bringing people together.
Do you have a favorite type of oyster or way to serve oysters?
It’s a matter of personal taste. I’m not here to teach people about the different varieties of oysters, rather I am here to put the knowledge of how to open an oyster and taste it for yourself in the people’s hands. I try and remain objective.
2014 marks the 15th anniversary of Brasserie FLO in China. Join them as they celebrate with a range of events with the theme of “fifteen.”
More stories by this author here.
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