2009 tbj Reader Restaurant Awards: The Experts Picks

We recently announced the readers’ picks for the 2009 tbj Reader Restaurant Awards – now, we let the experts have their say. Our panel consists of eight long-term Beijing F&B experts. Each was given a blank ballot and asked to name up to three restaurants in each category. Their top choice was assigned 3 points, their second choice 2 points, and their third choice, 1 point. The restaurant with the highest point total was named as the Experts’ Pick.


About the Experts

One of China’s best-known food critics and gourmet columnists, Dai Aiqun has appeared in a number of food-related shows on CCTV and BTV. Dai also consults for a number of gourmet magazines and TV shows. His favorite beverage is tea.

In 1994, Stuart Eunson co-founded Beijing-based Arabica Roasters, which now sells gourmet coffee to upscale restaurants, hotels, coffee shops and offices in more than half a dozen cities in China. As part of his job, he indulges his passion for flavors and dines out frequently in Beijing’s finest restaurants, many of which are clients.

A former high school teacher, Sandra Huang has traveled and eaten her way through over 20 countries, and has worked in restaurants as host, busser, waiter and cook. Sandra is currently chief writer for www.savourasia.com, an online guide to what and where to eat in Beijing, Hanoi and Bangkok, and she teaches Chinese and Southeast Asian cooking at The Hutong.

Jen Lin-Liu is the author of Serve the People: A Stir-Fried Journey Through China and the founder of the cooking school Black Sesame Kitchen.

After years of sampling the flavors of Indonesia, Taiwan, Hong Kong, and New York, Eileen Wen Mooney brought her discerning palate to China, where she has worked as a freelance food writer for Time Out, tbj, Fodor’s China, and Zagat Beijing. She also appeared in Rhodes Across China, a six-part TV special on Chinese food. Eileen is the author of Beijing Eats, which introduces 26 Chinese cuisines and 150 restaurants in the capital.

A former restaurateur in the Greek isles and restaurant manager/sommelier in Australia, Annie Lundin moved to Beijing in 2002 to manage Aria Restaurant at the China World Hotel. In 2005 Annie joined ASC Fine Wines, serving as Director of Sales and, currently, Director of Client Relations/Business Development. Restaurants and wine are such a part of her DNA that she expects to eventually operate her own restaurant again.

Award-winning chef Jeffery Powell has plied his craft from San Francisco and Squaw Valley to Shunyi and Sanlitun. Along with Alice Waters, Wolfgang Puck, Mario Batali and Julia Child, he was a contributor to a sustainable seafood cookbook produced by The Smithsonian Institute. His favorite kitchen implements are the microplane, oyster knife and Mac French Knife.

For the last two years, Manuela Zoninsein has written about the Beijing dining scene for "the competition." When not eating, cooking, or researching eating and cooking, she takes time to write for publications such as Condé Nast Traveler, Newsweek, Slate.com and Travel+Leisure.

The Experts' Picks

Best Brunch (Hotel) - Senses/Prego (Westin Financial Street)

“Not everyone likes the cheesy tango dancers, but few can fault the amazing spread with everything from sashimi and caviar to pan-fried foie gras and Peking duck. It’s buffet heaven.” – Jen Lin-Liu

Best Décor - Maison Boulud à Pékin

“Maison Boulud’s classic physical structure has been carefully restored with a contemporary interior without being overbearing, retaining its classic look while not feeling rigid or formal. This is a successfully recreation of an atmosphere that is elegant, casual and a bit austere.” – Eileen Wen Mooney

Best Service - Maison Boulud à Pékin

“Maison Boulud delivers perfect pitch service. Members of the staff, from the coat check to your tableside, are polite and welcoming without any hovering or obsequiousness, and are informed and helpful without a bit of snobbishness. Service is delivered the best way, getting done without you noticing.” – Sandra Huang

Best for Impressing Visitors - Maison Boulud à Pékin

“This Michelin-rated restaurant is located in a historic two-story European structure with a towering ceilings and a grand double staircase with polished bannister. Built in 1903, the building was once home to the US Embassy in the final years of the Qing dynasty. The elegance and regality of the building reflect the capital’s past glory.” – Eileen Wen Mooney

Best Brunch (Standalone) - The Orchard

“Drive through the fruit trees to The Orchard’s airy stone and wood-beam house and feel the stresses of Beijing peel away. Other brunches favor breakfast foods; The Orchard brings it all on, offering a bountiful buffet of delicious hearty casseroles, roast meats, salads, charcuterie and desserts.” – Sandra Huang

Best Outdoor Dining - Dali Courtyard

“The handsome, lush courtyard with its water feature, outdoor heating, and rustic touches like sausages hanging from the trees, set the scene for lovely, leisurely alfresco meals. Add to that the decent wine list and absence of ordering (set menus only) and Dali Courtyard is the perfect introduction to Yunnan cuisine.” – Jen Lin-Liu

Best Business Lunch - Maison Boulud à Pékin

“The Western, neoclassical building and stately interior create an elegant and comfortable environment that’s perfect for important gatherings. And Daniel Boulud, the two-star French Michelin chef from New York, knows exactly how to combine classical and contemporary cooking styles.” – Dai Aiqun

Best Wine List - Aria

“The wine list is massive, and holds all the top-name money-makers I can’t afford, but every time I eat at Aria I try a wine which becomes my new favorite. They know how to pour a pour, GM Danny Kane knows how to talk the talk, and the ambiance is perfect for slow savoring.” – Manuela Zoninsein

Best for a Romantic Meal - Maison Boulud à Pékin

“Maison Boulud is for all occasions, but especially for that romantic dinner. The food, wine list and ambiance are excellent. And it is wonderful to have a true professional such as Ignace Lecleir running the dining room and catering to everyone's needs! The little extra touches at Maison Boulud – such as the slice of cake that arrives with your bill – makes it stand out from the rest.” – Annie Lundin

Best Steak - Cru Steakhouse

“Cru has an excellent selection of beef, and wait staff who know a lot about their menu selections. They make recommendations that suit you, and answer any questions you have about the beef. Most importantly, though, the kitchen knows how to handle the meat, and you get the preparation that you request.” – Stuart Eunson

Best Vegetarian - Pure Lotus

“The menu is primarily a classic Buddhist Chinese food menu, but they frequently add a dish or two which can only be described as “fusion vegetarian,” which are usually excellent. All of their menu items are extremely well-executed. The environment is bright and comfortable, and the wait staff is friendly and helpful.” – Stuart Eunson

Best Value - SALT

“When you visit SALT Restaurant, you are greeted by Gaby and her team who are always most welcoming. The set menu price is really a great value and the wine list offers good varietals at affordable prices, which means you can order another bottle. A great experience.” – Annie Lundin

Best Sandwiches - Element Fresh

“You can visit Element Fresh anytime of day for a GREAT SANDWICH and will never be disappointed or leave hungry. A healthy stop that is great quality for a great price.” – Annie Lundin

Best Burger - Blue Frog

“Blue Frog is great not just because it does straightforward, tasty food; it's also great because it maintains a comfortable, congenial atmosphere (without skimping on quality). If it were in New York, it would be your upscale neighborhood watering hole.” – Manuela Zoninsein

Best Pizza - The Tree

“If you like thin-crust pizza, this is the place. The Tree has a laid-back environment and a great beer menu, both of which add to the pizza experience here. They use great quality ingredients and have a custom-made wood-fired oven, making their pizzas some of the best in the city.” – Stuart Eunson

Most Family-Friendly - The Orchard

“The Orchard has well-trained, kid-friendly wait staff, and the venue is large enough that when the young ones have finished their meal, they can get up and move around without bothering other dinners, creating a very family-friendly dining experience. The food is reasonably priced, good quality, and they have menu selections to fit just about every taste.” – Stuart Eunson

Best Middle Eastern - Rumi

“Rumi – in a word, great! The food is authentic and very consistent, the rice (palau) is flavorful and the grilled meats are seasoned perfectly. The naan is fresh and tender and I almost always order a second plate. And there isn't a bunch of gyrating belly dancers to hamper my enjoyment of my food. I come for the food when I dine ... NOT the show.” – Jeffery Powell

Best Indian/Pakistani - The Taj Pavilion

“Don’t you hate it when you look at a menu and get stuck between ordering an old favorite and expanding your horizons? I shouldn’t complain, but this happens to me every time I eat here. And when I do try a new dish, I always fall in love with it – which only makes it more difficult the next time.” – Manuela Zoninsein

Best Mexican - The Saddle Cantina

“The Saddle Cantina represents the best of the current offerings in Beijing in that it is fresh, consistent and flavorful. The atmosphere is great and in the spring, summer and fall, you can sit outside on the patio and enjoy conversation with friends, the night air, some great drinks and chips, salsa, burritos and enchiladas.” – Jeffery Powell

Best Korean - Suraon

“Sauces. That’s what Korean food is about – to me at least. Fresh, delicious ingredients don’t hurt, either, but at Suraon every dish comes coated, or accompanied, by a distinct, delicious flavoring that adds a persity I find lacking in other Korean eateries. Spicy to sweet to sour to smoky... they’ve got all the bases covered. Also, it’s not that expensive!” – Manuela Zoninsein

Best Italian - Cepe

“Cepe consistently presents Italian cuisine in a traditional yet innovative way, from appetizers to main course to dessert. It also has a fantastic selection of wines to accompany your meal and great desserts.” – Eileen Wen Mooney

Best French - Maison Boulud à Pékin

“Internationally acclaimed Michelin-starred Daniel Boulud offers quality haute cuisine, working with some local Chinese ingredients. Maison Boulud pays great attention to detail and has impeccable service.” – Eileen Wen Mooney

Best Thai - Purple Haze

“Although I don't eat Thai that often, I love spicy food and this certainly fits the bill. I love their meat salad in lettuce cups. Their tom ka gai and the green curry, shrimp cakes, and papaya salad are all great as well.” – Jeffery Powell

Best Vietnamese - Nam Nam

“The spring rolls and the pho at Nam Nam are the closest to the real deal here in Beijing, and the atmosphere reminds me of the French/Vietnamese style of architecture you find in Vietnam.” – Jeffery Powell

Best Japanese - Yotsuba

“Yotsuba delivers fresh-cut raw fish and seafood flown in daily from Tokyo’s most famous fish market. Take a front-row seat to watch the sushi master magically form delicious morsels of sashimi in a split second.” – Eileen Wen Mooney

Best Dim Sum - Lei Garden

“In addition to perfectly executed standards like shaomai, pan-fried noodles and egg tarts, Lei Garden has the most fantastic crispy cubes of pork I have ever tasted in my life.” – Jen Lin-Liu

Best Taiwanese - Bellagio

“Bellagio is the perfect place to get a non-pretentious Taiwanese meal. The food is good quality, the flavors are authentic, the wait staff is cool, and they are very busy, which makes the people-watching a varied and fun experience.” – Stuart Eunson

Best Xinjiang - Xinjiang Islam Restaurant

“Xinjiang Islam Restaurant is crowded and bustling and with the atmosphere of a cafeteria in the 1970s. The roast lamb chops, Xinjiang cold noodles, the nang bao rou (stir-fried lamb with tomatoes, peppers and onions over naan), and Xinjiang pulled noodles are good and very reasonably priced.” – Dai Aiqun

Best Hot Pot - Haidilao Hot Pot

“Haidilao’s youthful and friendly service gives an added welcome to the usual fiery hot pot feast. The tableside hand-pulled noodle ‘dance’ provides unexpected but absorbing entertainment.” – Sandra Huang

Best Beijing Duck - Da Dong Roast Duck

“Not to beat a dead horse – or should I say, duck – but haven’t we all reached an agreement on this one? The bird’s skin comes crispy but not too oily, the fat layer retains moistness, and the meat is tender and flavorful. I also like their cuts, which range in fat-to-lean-meat quotients so you can pick out your preferred proportion.” – Manuela Zoninsein

Best Shanghai - Din Tai Fung

“Din Tai Fung has the best xialongbao in Beijing, hands down – the key is the broth and secret ingredient: pork skin. Complementing these steamed dumplings are delicious dandan mian, amazing double-boiled chicken soup and excellent service.” – Jen Lin-Liu

Best Sichuan - Feiteng Yuxiang

“I like to enjoy spicy food at least once a month and when I visit Feiteng Yuxiang, the food quality and atmosphere are always very consistent. It is a great example of the best Beijing has to offer!” – Annie Lundin

Best Yunnan - Yunteng Shifu

“Yunteng Shifu has wonderful varieties of exotic ingredients and vegetables from ox live mushrooms to wrinkled peppers and wild roots.” – Eileen Wen Mooney

Chinese Restaurant of the Year - Da Dong Roast Duck

“Da Dong gives you the whole package – great duck, chic environment and efficient service. Center stage is fabulous Peking roast duck. Accompanying dishes are also well-prepared at all price points and come plated as an artistic palette. Plenty of room between tables offers quieter dining and uncommon privacy.” – Sandra Huang

Non-Chinese Restaurant of the Year - Maison Boulud à Pékin

“Maison Boulud reaches world-class status, which is unusual for Beijing. The service is flawless, the décor exquisite, the wine list impressive and Boulud’s French ‘soul food’ and modern cuisine like the crab mango salad and the DB burger exceeded all expectations. It’s spectacular.” – Jen Lin-Liu

Comments

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Comments

You have a point about the majority/plurality, but that doesn't make your statement any less incorrect:

Quote:
What is a huge surprise is that not only a few people, but most people voted Element Fresh as the restaurant of the year.

Again, with an emphasis: Most people did not vote for Element Fresh as the restaurant of the year.

If I were to say something like "most Chinese people own a cell phone", would you assume that a small fraction of people, say 15%, or a plurality of the people, own a cellphone? Of course you wouldn't. No one would.

One thing for sure is that most people couldn't give a shit about this debate so let's get back onto the topic of the restaurants themselves.

Books by current and former Beijinger staffers

http://astore.amazon.com/truerunmedia-20

the_remedy wrote:
Well, it's quite simple: there are no restaurants in Beijing that serve good Mexican food. Luga's and Saddle try, but fall well short. Saddle wins because the choices are better and the venue is excellent.

The saddle might as well just wrap a nutty turd in a tortilla and call it mexican food as far as I am concerned, I think the flavor would be the same reult.

Your quote, Mr Pendantic:

"the_remedy" wrote:
What is a huge surprise is that not only a few people, but most people voted Element Fresh as the restaurant of the year."

Most people (~85%) did not vote for Element Fresh as the restaurant of the year.

Only 15% did.

Let me know when you want another math (and English) lesson.

Books by current and former Beijinger staffers

http://astore.amazon.com/truerunmedia-20

the_remedy wrote:
What is a huge surprise is that not only a few people, but most people voted Element Fresh as the restaurant of the year.

clarification: Not "most" but "a majority of".

There were 12 nominees in the Restaurant of the year category (plus the possibility of write ins), so if all 12 plus write-ins had an equally distributed vote, each category would get about 7.7% of the vote.

As it turned out, the winning restaurant got approximately 15% of the vote; while the last place restaurant got 2%.

Books by current and former Beijinger staffers

http://astore.amazon.com/truerunmedia-20

I like Purple Haze a lot, the food is good, and a nice atmosphere too.

How the hell is The Saddle best Mexican? I have only had mexi there and Lugas, so I am not so well versed as to what qualifies as good Mexican food in Beijing, unfortunately what qualifies here may not anywhere else. Lugas was semi-okay, but the saddle was, well, gross. The beans in my enchiladas were hard and dry. It really was BAD. But really, in the U.S. I lived in a small town with just 40,000 people but somehow most Mexican places there knew how to cook the beans. It just seemed like The Saddle was over-priced crap to me. And, I made the mistake of bringing my girlfriend who'd never had Mexican before, and now, when she thinks of Mexican food, she thinks of The Saddle, wo kao! I can't get her to eat Mexican food, no new places, no old places--- nothing. The saddle ruined Mexican food for her. Nice one Saddle crew.

chaoyangman wrote:
much better than the reader awards!!! Only mistake is Salt...what is the fuzz about that boring food....?

Interesting to note: Readers and Experts picks were the same in 1/3 of the categories.

Here's where Readers and Experts agreed:

Beijing Duck: Da Dong
Thai: Purple Haze
Taiwanese: Bellagio
Pizza: The Tree
Vegetarian: Pure Lotus
Shanghai: Din Tai Fung
Mexican: Saddle Cantina
Sandwiches: Element Fresh
Hot Pot: Haidilao
Indian/Pakistani: Taj Pavillion
French: Masion Boulud
Chinese Restaurant of the Year: Da Dong

Here's where Readers and Experts disagreed:

Korean: Suraon (Experts), Han Na Shan (Readers)
Sichuan: Feiteng Yuxiang (Experts), South Beauty (Readers)
Outdoor dining: Dali Courtyard (Experts), Vineyard Cafe (Readers)
Brunch (standalone): The Orchard (Experts), Grandma's Kitchen (Readers)
Brunch (hotel): Senses (Westin Financial St.) (Experts), Taste, Westin Beijing Chaoyang (Readers)
Steak: Cru (Experts), SALT (Readers)
Japanese: Yotsuba (Experts), Hatsune (Readers)
Wine List: Aria (Experts), Maison Boulud (Readers)
Dim Sum: Lei Garden (Experts), Jin Ding Xuan (Readers)
Yunnan: Yunteng Shifu (Experts), Middle 8th Restaurant (Readers)
Decor: Maison Boulud (Experts), Lan (Readers)
Family-Friendly Restaurant: The Orchard (Experts), Grandma's Kitchen (Readers)
Impressing Visitors: Maison Boulud (Experts), Lan (Readers)
Value: SALT (Experts), Annie's (Readers)
Italian: Cepe (Experts), Annie's (Readers)
Service: Maison Boulud (Experts), SALT (Readers)
Middle Eastern: Rumi (Experts), 1001 Nights (Readers)
Vietnamese: Nam Nam (Experts), Muse (Readers)
Business Lunch: Maison Boulud (Experts), Alameda (Readers)
Xinjiang: Xinjiang Islam Restaurant (Experts), Red Rose (Readers)
Burger: Blue Frog (Experts), Let's Burger (Readers)
Romantic Meal: Maison Boulud (Experts), The Courtyard (Readers)
Non-Chinese Restaurant of the Year: Maison Boulud (Experts), Element Fresh (Readers)

Books by current and former Beijinger staffers

http://astore.amazon.com/truerunmedia-20

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